San Francisco Chronicle - Tuesday, September 17, 2002
Carolyne Zinko, Chronicle Staff Writer

It was held at the home of a family friend who had worked in the Kennedy White House, and whose neighbors in the gay enclave were getting sick. But as the hat was passed, it was clear that guests were not as brave as the host. The collection filled up, but only with $20 bills.

"There was so much fear about being associated with gays that nobody wanted to write a check -- nobody wanted to be identified," Kelley recalls.

Today, fashion shows, cocktail parties and rock concerts double as benefits, drawing checks from hundreds and thousands of donors who have no qualms about being seen at -- or having their names attached to -- such events. Nearly everyone knows -- or knew -- someone with AIDS.

Macy's presents its 20th annual fashion show, Macy's Passport, this week, its 15th year as an AIDS benefit.

The event started out as a men's fashion show in the department store cafeteria and has turned into a three-day extravaganza. It starts on Wednesday at the Fort Mason Center and is expected to attract 3,000 guests each night.

Elizabeth Taylor, the founding chair, is to appear at the gala on Thursday and Earvin "Magic" Johnson is on the schedule for Friday. The event is expected to raise $2 million for AIDS services in the Bay Area and for building a stone overlook in the National AIDS Memorial Grove at Golden Gate Park.

Proceeds also go for research. The University of California at San Francisco, for example, is receiving $1.1 million over six years for its Center for Creative Therapies, which tries to develop new treatments for people with HIV.

"What private money does is allows us to go where government money won't or can't," said Dr. Tom Coates, director of the UCSF Center for AIDS Prevention Studies. "Government money tends to be conservative. What we can do with a little money from Macy's and other places is go after wild, innovative, on-the- edge-ideas and give them a chance. Those are the ideas we need to support, because we really don't know how to control this virus with a vaccine."

New treatments would go a long way toward benefiting people not only in San Francisco, but also around the world. Globally, 40 million people already are infected with the virus, and the epidemic is not expected to peak until 2050.

Other AIDS benefits include Elton John's "Enduring Vision" concert at the Legion of Honor on Oct. 16, his first such benefit in the Bay Area. He will perform live, charging 500 guests $2,500 each. Proceeds go to the Elton John Foundation, which in turn distributes money to national AIDS-fighting funds, and some of that money will end up at UCSF.

Project Inform, an advocacy group, holds its annual fund-raiser at the Merchants Exchange Building on Oct. 8. The fund-raising goal is more than $200, 000. The group started in 1985 with the name "Project," in the belief that finding curative drugs would be a short-term project, said Kelley, a member of its board of directors.

In spring, the Academy of Friends Oscar Gala is staged at Fort Mason Center's Festival Pavilion. Guests pay $200 a ticket to drink, dance and watch the awards show, with money going to local AIDS and HIV organizations.

And in 1995, the Richmond/Ermet AIDS Foundation in 1995 began a series of fund-raisers throughout the year that showcase musical performances by stars of Broadway, film, television and the local cabaret scene, to benefit agencies providing services to AIDS patients.

Some AIDS activists say it is the sophistication of local donors that makes it possible for AIDS benefits to be successful and to grow, year after year.

"In the Bay Area at least, people have been genuinely moved by the epidemic, " said Tom Nolan, executive director of Project Open Hand, which has received $700,000 from Macy's Passport since 1988, the year the fashion gala became an AIDS benefit.

"At the International Aids Conference in 1996, the Champagne was flowing as protease inhibitors and other therapies started to be popular," Nolan said.

"There was euphoria because people thought the end of AIDS was in sight. I was worried that people would stop contributing, and they didn't. And when the demographics shifted around the world (with women, minorities and rural populations contracting AIDS) people stuck with us."

Other observers say the shows might be a success because they're the right thing to do.

"At the time Macy's started the AIDS benefit, it was not a popular issue to speak out on." said Wilkes Bashford, a longtime San Francisco clothier. "It was brave and foresighted to see it would not have a negative impact on business."

Then there's a simpler explanation: The events are popular because they happen to be fun.

"We're in a time when there's AIDS fatigue and fatigue for many health issues, and to get people to contribute, we do need to get good solid entertainment," Coates, the researcher, said. "I think it's a credit to Macy's for recognizing that, and not just having people eat another dinner and stare at each other. A production that's fun and enjoyable and creative motivates people to contribute to the cause."

FASHION SHOW

MACY'S PASSPORT 20/02: FASHION AND COMPASSION: Sept. 18: Microsoft Teen Night, by invitation only (no tickets sold to public).

Sept. 19: Gala evening with VIP reception and black-tie dinner at 5 p.m., Herbst Pavilion, Fort Mason Center. General reception at 6:30 p.m., Festival Pavilion. Show with Elizabeth Taylor at 8:30 p.m., Festival Pavilion. Tickets: $75-$500.

Sept. 20: American Express card member evening. General reception at 7 p.m., Festival Pavilion. Live auction hosted by Earvin "Magic" Johnson at 8:30 p.m.; fashion show follows. Tickets: $40-$150. For information, call Ticketmaster at (415) 421-8497 or the Macy's Passport hot line at (800) 334-6158 or go to ticketmaster.com.

ELTON JOHN'S "ENDURING VISION": Oct. 16, Palace of the Legion of Honor. Some tickets still available, starting at $2,500 each. For information, call the Elton John AIDS Foundation at (310) 535-1775 or the event hot line at (310) 278-2729.

E-mail Carolyne Zinko at czinko@sfchronicle.com.
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