Important note: Information in this article was accurate in 2008. The state of the art may have changed since the publication date.
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Reuters NewMedia - October 14, 2008
Thin Lei Win
They dance and sing, moving delicately as they follow the rhythm. Their leader, an 84-year-old former school teacher, stands in the middle, brandishing a lyric sheet and ordering everyone to stay in line.
Instruments include empty coconut shells, two pieces of short wood, a traditional drum and a pair of plastic maracas. The soaring voice of a man in his seventies rises above the catchy beat.
The dancers aren't all in step, but they make up for it in enthusiasm. After the first performance, they want to do an encore. You'd never guess they'd gone through numerous tragedies in their lives.
The group's members - from villages in San Sai district near Chiang Mai in northern Thailand - have all been affected by HIV/AIDS in one way or another.
Despite the common perception that older people have little to do with the disease, most have lost family members and children to the virus. Many take care of their orphaned grandchildren.
Khun (an honorary title in Thai) Janfong Fumfoei set up this support group five years ago, when the former vendor found out her younger son was HIV positive. The news came barely a month after her first son has died, also of HIV.
Now the 71-year-old is nursing her younger son - who has become an active advocate - as well as a female friend who lost her husband and has nowhere to live.
"You don't expect a child to pass away before you and leave their child to your care," says Khun Janfong. "Living with a person who is infected, it is difficult for the heart to accept."
But accept it she did. The founder of the "group that loves health" - whose members range from 50 to 84 years old - has become the local guru not only on HIV/AIDS, but also customs and etiquette.
She starts by teaching children good manners, and once they become familiar with her, moves on to the deadly virus.
She uses play cards about HIV/AIDS produced by local non-governmental organisation Foundation for Old People's Development (FOPDEV) and its affiliate Help Age International, which also support her group. Once the children are ready, she lets them talk to older people about the disease.
This way, the young receive education on the causes, symptoms and prevention of HIV/AIDS, while raising awareness among the wider community.
The group meets at least once a month at the local church - most are Buddhists but protestant Khun Janfong lets them use the spacious shed next to the church. They share experiences and give each other comfort and support.
They also work on small handicraft projects, producing Christmas lights, herbal presses and artificial flowers. The flowers, made of thin, silky cloth, are especially popular with nearby villagers, many of whom have requested training.
The group's members are understandably proud of their creations, which also include home-made fertiliser and a DIY sauna (a cross between a plastic wardrobe and a tent).
The number of participants has grown from 32 to 52. Most are women, but there are a few men too. For Khun Panya Duangkaew - the man with the soaring voice - the camaraderie and mutual understanding are the best part. He lost his son to HIV.
Then there's a quiet, shy lady who looks after her granddaughter alone since her daughter passed away at the young age of 25. Khun Ruankaew Sutthawas is the oldest member at 84. Her eldest son is living with the virus.
Yet they soldier on, looking after their sick children, tending to their young grandchildren, and still finding time to educate the community, sing, dance, and make things. Against the odds, they manage to remain cheerful and positive.
I later find out the melodic song was about the philosophy of life and death. Written over 50 years ago by a monk, it tells people not to worry about losing their youth, skin or vitality but to focus on being good and helping each other. It suits the group perfectly.
As our van moves out of the church grounds and on to the main road, I can see them, still in their beautiful clothes, getting ready to go home to the people who depend on them, with an energy and determination that belie their age.
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